Gators everywhere

Or The Everglades, Part 1.

Well, I have been very busy with my dissertation of late, and have put the blog on the back burner. But I was meaning to post about the visit my family paid us this March. It had a decidedly Everglades theme to it, and I must say I found a new appreciation for this hotbed of biological diversity. Of course, everyone thinks of alligators as synonomous with the Everglades. In fact, while travelling along the Tamiami Trail (Highway 41) back from Naples, David and I had some hot, tired-looking tourists enquire where they might spot one of these magnificent carnivores. I wondered, had they been looking in the canal along the road at all, where they should of seen dozens of the reptiles basking on the banks? My answer to them was Shark Valley, one of the public entrances to Everglades National Park, where you are absolutely guaranteed to see gators, to the point that they seem positiviely passé.

I have absolutely fallen in love with the bike trail at Shark Valley, although I probably won't be visiting again until fall, when the mosquitos are less ubiquitous and the weather isn't so hot. The trail is a 15 mile loop, starting at the Visitor's Center. Out at the far end of the trail is an observations tower, from which you can see all sorts of birds roosting in the trees. I love listening to them chatter and squawk. They could be called the Everglades Symphony. You can rent bikes at Shark Valley for around $8/hr, or bring your own.

For those of you who can't or don't want to bike the loop, you can take a tram ride around the trail. The best part of this is that a ranger guides the tour, and so you learn about the biology and ecology of the sawgrass prairie, as well as its natural history. The tram rides make the park accessible to everyone. You can even walk along the trail for a bit. Right out by the Visitor Center is where I have seen some of the most wildlife, including a Little Green Heron and an Anhinga nest.

I've now done the trail by bike and tram, and the place never fail to strike a sense of wonder in me. It is thrilling to watch the anhinga, the herons and egrets, the ibises and storks, fishing, roosting, relaxing. When you drive through the Everglades at 70 mph, it looks like a flat see of sawgrass, and seems like it doesn't hold a candle to the national parks out West. In the Everglades, you have to slow down and look a little more closely to really appreciate its beauty.

For the next post, we'll stay in the Everglades, but travel to the mangrove estuaries...

Shop Local Miami. Coral Gable Farmer's Market

Coral Gable Farmer's Market: 8 AM-1 PM, Jan-March, on the corner of Le Jeune and the Miracle Mile (in front of City Hall).

David and I went to the Coral Gables Farmer's market a couple of weeks ago with no idea what to expect. The verdict? While you are able to buy local produce there, it is a far cry from farmer's markets in other large cities (and even Des Moines, for that matter!). There are about 20 vendors there, and I counted only 2 or three selling vegetables. However, the vendors at this small markets offer very good product at fairly reasonable prices. We bought local honey, freshly baked bread, eggplant, cucumbers, beets, tomatoes, lettuce, as well as pastries and coffee for breakfast. It was really a lot of fun.

There are activities accompanying the market: gardening lectures, stuff for kids, and I believe sometimes music. What's more, going to the market is the perfect excuse to have brunch nearby, at say Graziano's Market.

Overall, I was disappointed at the size of the market, but it was still worth the trip. And the more popular it becomes, the bigger it will get, right? Hopefully it will grow in coming seasons. This is the last weekend for the market this season, so get out there while you can.

Buy local Miami---down south in Redland

Drive far enough south on Highway 1 and you will reach the Redland Agricultural area, one of the last bastions of farming area in south Florida. Named for the red clay in the "topsoil" (really crushed rock), the area has historically been a major producer of mango, avocado and vegetables. Today, much acreage has been moved to nurseries raising every ornamental plant you can imagine, as well as small specialty crops including everything from mamey to pitaya to lychee and longan.

Because of its proximity to the Everglades, many Redland stops are popular among tourists and offer fun food experiences. In the winter, I buy almost all of my produce down here. There are informal fruit and vegetable stands dotting the sides of most major roads (try across from the Fruit and Spice Park on 248th ST and 187th Ave, or on Krome Ave before 288th ST). There are also several larger, more established places you can go to get fresh products. You can easily turn a trip to the Redlands into a food adventure.

These are a few places I recommend trying:

1) Knaus Berry Farm, 15980 SW 248th ST. Open M-Sat, Dec-Apr.
Knaus Berry Farm is a a must stop if you've got a sweet tooth. They have cinnamon buns that are to die for, and only cost about $6 for a dozen! They come out warm and gooey, everything a cinnamon bun should be. And then there are the strawberries. Red, juicy, sweet, and huge! You can pick your own or just pick up a pint. Or, have a strawberry millshake. These are made with fresh, not frozen, berries and soft serve. People drive all the way from North Miami to get what Knaus has to offer.
But if you are in the mood for milkshakes...

2) Robert is Here, 19200 SW 344th Street, closed Sept-Oct. Robert, the proprieter, started the stand as a kid in 1959, and yes, he is usually there behind the counter. This is a big tourist stop, but I am also a regular there. The milkshakes are a big draw, offering a multitude of tropical fruit flavors (my favorites are key lime and passionfruit strawberry). Robert is Here also has a large selection of rare tropical fruits, grown right here in the area. You can get the staples like avocado (winter) and mango ( summer), but als try some of the stranger fruits---pitaya, custard apple, black sapote, jackfruit, etc. These can be a bit pricey, but you can always buy a small amount to sample. Lastly, I shop here every week for vegetables, mostly locally grown. You can get great tomatoe (and they just started offering German Stripe and Brandywine heirlooms), as well as broccoli, onions, green beans, corn, herbs, arugula, spinach, eggplant, etc. Prices are comparable to Publix or Whole Foods.

3) If you are a wine drinker, travel on down to the Schnebly Winery, 30205 SW 217 ave. This place has undergone an amazing transformation in the last few years. It went from a single trailer offering about half a dozen fruit wines to a gigantic venue with a beautiful tasting room, courtyard with seating and waterfall, and private rooms for parties. There are about a dozen fruit wines to taste, including carambola (starfruit), mango, guava, passionfruit, and even avocado. The lychee wine has won multiple awards. Most wines are very sweet, but there a few drier ones as well. The winery also has several "special" wines: sparkling and sweet dessert wines. Tastings are $6 for regular wines and $7 for "special" wines. On the weekends you cna buy a bottle and enjoy it in the courtyard with live music.
I hope you have a chance to visit the Redland. Believe me, getting out in the "country" will do wonders for your nerves after the hustle and bustle of the city.

Next week...the Coral Gables Farmer's Market.